Myles Harrington

A Couple of Days in Khajuraho

In India on June 18, 2010 at 4:56 pm

I left Varanasi with three new British companions who I’d met at the guesthouse and were heading the same way out of town. Biddy and Cam are a couple from Bath who’ve been travelling all over Asia and Columba is a bloke from a small village near Oxford who has been in India for the last five months. These experienced travellers were to acpcomany me to the iconic and unmissable sexy temples of Khajuraho.

Evidence of the architectural genius of the Chandela dynasty

For once, the train was relatively empty and we all managed to get a few decent hours sleep before the standard bombardment upon arrival by the swarms of desperate touts. We went with one of them to a generic guesthouse that was falling apart. We went with him because of the promise of 100 Rs cold beers in the spacious garden. Is it wrong that the price of beer was the decider at 7am?

We paid the painful entrance fee of 250 Rs (£3.65) to enter into the Western group of temples (the ones with the most sex and intricate carvings) and I would say it was actually worth the price. Unlike when I was charged the same for the Red Fort in Delhi. When the entrance fee to sites costs the same as a day of living, you start to question whether you really need to go in.

They sold copies of this for coffee tables everywhere in Khajuraho

The carvings weren’t as raunchy as I’d imagined but there were some scenes that wouldn’t look too out of place in a youporn action sequence, so considering these were allowed to be depicted a thousand years ago is quite surprising. They would still make most Indians blush today. Apparently when the guides give Indian honeymooners the tour of the western group of temples, they then give them some rest time at the hotel before continuing on to the eastern and southern sites.

Shortly after this I was warned by a guide I would be beaten and escorted off the premises if I did this again

After the western site we took some rest too. The cold beers were calling and the garden was a great setting for the some light refreshment and frisbee in the afternoon. A few beers and a couple of World Cup footie matches later, the chef sat with us in the garden with his chillum. After a couple of drags he told us he’d cook us a cheap feast for lunch the next day.

Frisbee frolics after some super strong Black Fort beers

The lunch didn’t disappoint, he took real pride in his work and the quality came through in the curry. It could even get a spot in my top ten meals in India (post soon to come). Sadly for him he didn’t get to practice much in the off season so it was a real treat to show off his skills. Nicely full, it was time for a stroll to the southern and eastern temple groups and back through the old city. They are not as impressive as the western site but still worth a look, that finished off our two day trip to Khajuraho. Columba and I were off on the 6pm train to Delhi and Agra respectively. Cam and Biddy stayed behind, I think they wanted to sample more of the chef’s culinary skills and of course the 100 Rs cold beer probably swayed them to stay, if just for another day.

The chiseling craftsman did an exquisite job

  1. […] for $15 but I’m on a tight budget and how could it possibly compare to the Ajanta caves or Khajuraho that I saw just over a month ago? We went to the Palace and saw the collection of unused sinks […]

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